Mission Madagascar, Part 1

Mission Madagascar: Notes from the Jungle

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By: Dr. Patricia Wright, 2014 Indianapolis Prize Winner

Three of us from Centre ValBio traveled half an hour west to a picturesque Betsileo village on Route 45 with two story adobe houses and several blacksmith forges.

This sunny Wednesday morning we had arrived for a meeting with the President to discuss the possibility of Ambatovaky being a tourist destination. The President wasn’t there and we made an appointment with his wife to convene the meeting on Friday morning. We heard the hammers and were guided to the forges.

 The barefoot blacksmiths were heating pieces of wrought iron until the metal glowed red and became soft enough to be shaped with handmade hammer, anvil and chisel. The glowing forge of charcoal was fanned by home made bellows, twin upright logs alternatively pushed by hand. Three muscular men hammered and shaped the metal after it was glowing hot. In fifteen minutes we had a shovel handle.  It was a dynamic experience and as a tourist, I bought the narrow shovel that I had seen made.

 Two days later we returned to Ambatovaky for a meeting with the President and the Executive Committee to discuss the “Artisanal Path for Tourists”. Susan Findel’s dream was to have the circuit start at Ambatovaky with observation of the blacksmiths. The President said “ other countries have engines and machines, why would they want to buy our iron made by hand?” And I explained, that yes other countries had machines and had forgotten how to do metal work by hand and they would be fascinated to see the work accomplished here. We discussed training in the English and French language, a museum, a Shoppe for selling their wares, and training to do metal sculpture. They asked for our collaboration and they showed us the land where the museum and shop could go. I bought two “coup-coups” two sickles and two more shovel handles to put on the wall of my USA house as works of art.

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